Long lasting, dilligent in sillage for most of the time on skin, and fairly fundamental in what it provides, the only real fault I can find in Roses Vanille is how boring such a linear and consistent one-two punch of a fragrance can be. Best use is romantic evening wear and although I'm going out on a limb to say this is unisex, I can see the conservative "think tank" guys clutching their bottles of "men's cologne" sneering in the back.
#Rose vanilla perfume skin#
There are trace woody aromachemicals here, and an almost almond-like nuttiness in the late dry down, but that's well after you have to put nose to skin in order to keep smelling it, so we're talking past 12 hours. The creaminess of the vanilla makes the musk smell a bit more virile and fatty than it otherwise would, but there isn't much development beyond settling down to that roses and musky vanilla, making a "poor man's" Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle (2000) with a bit of candy rose. Rather than swaddle the rose in green notes and bergamot like you may be used to in chypre interpretations, or dirtied up with amber and leather like some other houses have been doing, Mancera just shoves citral, ethyl maltol, ethyl vanillin, and a white musk in here to call it a day. Maybe Pierre Montale created this accord and sells it to other houses, because obviously these bottles sell for $180 new instead of $350 like some other brands that feature this type of semi-candied rose, but I digress. The opening is going to be that Montale/Mancera "megarose" synthetic rose note, like a smoother more finessed version of the rose most commonly had in a lot of big-name big-price niche these days featuring rose and oud, rose and patchouli, rose and musk, you name it, but fattened up per the vanilla theme here.
Here is an example of another simple pleasure I am totally agreeable with smelling, but wouldn't be much interested in buying, ergo I like this enough to give it thumbs up, but smelling it is like going through the motions for my nose-brain. I've smelled a lot of Mancera and Montale rose thingamajiggers now, and I can tell you whatever is going on to make up the rose note is a sort of shared house note between the two brands too, so if you've not found other rose perfumes from either house to suit you, the same warning to avoid applies. So really, if you don't think roses and vanilla combined will work for you, there really is no need to even try this perfume, as it pretty much single-mindedly drives home that theme. The premise behind Roses Vanille is simple so I won't draw this review out: it's roses and vanilla, with some balancing players for depth and diffusion, easy peasy. There is some of the same candy sweetness here but it isn't delivered as fruit candy like in Roses Greedy, and overall I feel like this is a much better, more balanced perfume that was perhaps taken further in the 2012 follow-up, losing what little unisex appeal it had (marginal at best) along with its grace. So if you’re new to patchouli, or you’re in the meh camp like I used to be, it’s time you step into 2022 and add a patchouli fragrance to your collection, whether you want a floral springtime scent, a sweet Valentine’s Day perfume for date night, or a spicy winter fragrance.Mancera Roses Vanille (2011) is a fragrance that feels like it was the base for the later Mancera Roses Greedy (2012), as it contains many of the pleasant aspects found in the dry down of that later scent, but none of the hangups. Now, I’ll wax poetic about the versatile powers of patchouli until the end of time.
Once I realized that some of the best perfumes contain patchouli, I learned that patchouli perfumes aren’t just woodsy and heavy-they can also be sweet, floral, and fresh, too. And I’ll be honest: they weren’t really my thing either (I pretty much always want to smell sweet and edible), until I realized that patchouli, which generally smells earthy and musky, doesn’t have to exist on its own as a one-note scent. In a world where vanilla perfumes, rose fragrances, and the likes of Santal 33 reign supreme, patchouli perfumes are severely slept on, if you ask me.
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